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In February 2022, we embarked on the Snow Leopard Expedition to Spiti in search of the illusive grey ghost of the mountains. This was one of the most challenging trips that we had made recently, a journey that tested our endurance and was generous in its rewards.
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I turned back to look at the matchbox houses of Karzok beyond the vast marshy grassland that I had walked through. Civilization seemed far enough now. I turned to the water again, took my glove off, bent down, and touched the freezing waters. Tso Moriori looked as beautiful up close as it did in my dreams.
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A road less taken goes from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri. Though more challenging than the Leh route, it provides breathtaking sights and an experience unparalleled elsewhere. We decided to follow this route and reach the High Mountain Lake.
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Bhigwan is a sleepy little town off Pune Solapur Highway famous for the huge Bhigwan lake. Hundreds of species of endemic and migratory birds arrive here every year, making it a favourite of photographers, bird watchers and local ornithologists.
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As you stand on the shores of Pangong Tso, watch its quiet waves gently rocking the pebbles beneath your feet and look at the changing colours of the water, the mountains beyond and the sky above, you know that you are experiencing something very unusual, something that cannot possibly belong to this world.
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Turtuk in Ladakh is a part of the tiny enclave from Baltistan which rejoined India in 1971, perhaps the only place where you will be able to experience the beautiful Balti culture as an Indian citizen.
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